history of printing

History of printing Technologies Woodblock printing 200 AD Movable type 1040 Intaglio 1430s Printing press 1439 Lithography 1796 Offset press by 1800s Chromolithography 1837 Rotary press 1843 Flexography 1890s Screen-printing 1907 Dye-sublimation 1957 Photocopier 1960s Pad printing 1960s Laser printer 1969 Dot matrix printer 1970 Thermal printer Inkjet printer 1976 Digital press 1993 3D printing

pollution prevention in textile dyeing n printing

Pollution Prevention Through Automation in Textile Dyeing and Printing Textile wet processing (i.e. preparation, dyeing, printing and chemical finishing) has always been considered one of the worst industrial sectors in terms of water consumption and pollution. In treating 1 ton of cotton fabric the composite waste stream may have 200-600 p.p.m. BOD, 1.000 to 1.600 p.p.m. of total solids and 30 to 50 p.p.m. of suspended solids contained in a volume of 50 to 160 m3. For wool the effluent load is even higher, for 1 ton of scoured wool the composite waste stream would have 430 to 1.200 p.p.m. BOD and around 6.500 p.p.m. total solids contained in a volume of 100 to 230 m3. Many textile companies invest - or plan to invest - heavily in effluent treatment, in many cases not knowing that the pollution load may be reduced by 30-50% by applying techniques of pollution prevention, such as: reduction of wastewater volume by good housekeeping, counterflow processing, reuse of process water, automation of the machinery reduction of the amount of dyes and chemicals used by good housekeeping process optimization recovery and reuse of process chemicals, automation of the machinery computerized recipe optimization When we speak about automation in textile dyeing and printing, we mean one or more (or all) of the following steps: Programmable process control (by microprocessors) of the machinery; dissolving and dispensing of the dyes, pigments and chemicals in a central colour kitchen; computer-controlled weighing of solid material with automatic stock control and the printing of recipe and process cards; colour measurement, computerized colour matching; central computer (network), computerized management system Which of the above, and in what order, should be implemented depends a great deal on what is the purpose of automation. In order to improve the quality a) and c) are the most important, to save man-power a) and b) would be recommended, while for cost reduction d) is far the most efficient. If our aim is better service to our customers: right-first-time production, quick response to the client's request and just-on-time delivery, we have to implement full automation from a) to e). When our goal is pollution prevention, every automation step helps, but the first four of the list above would bring the most immediate results. Programmable process control (by microprocessors) of the machinery Full control of the processes results in 10-30% saving in water and energy usage as well as 5-15% saving in dyes and chemicals (in addition to significant saving in labour, and improvement in quality). Dissolving and dispensing of the dyes, pigments and chemicals in a central colour kitchen. 5-10% savings in dyes, pigments and chemicals (in addition to significant saving in labour, and improvement in quality). Computer-controlled weighing of solid material with automatic stock control and the printing of recipe and process cards. 10-15% savings in dyes, pigments and chemicals (in addition to significant improvement in quality). Colour measurement, computerized colour matching Up to 30-40% savings in dyes and pigments (in addition to significant improvement in quality). Needless to say, all the dyestuffs, pigments and chemical products "saved" by any of the above mentioned methods are also saved from the effluent. The greatest attraction of pollution prevention through automation is the simultaneous result of significant cost savings both in the production and in the effluent treatment. The costs of automation are relatively low, typical Return of Investment figures are in the range of 3 months to 1 year, not calculating the quality and reliability improvements, and neither the savings achieved in investing in and running a smaller effluent treatment plant.

Different types of Fabrics

Different types of Fabrics made out of different fibres

Pure Linen fabric





Pure Cotton fabric

Pure Polyester fabric

Pure cotton Fabric

Pur Silk fabric

speciality polyester fibre

SPECIALITY FIBRES IN POLYESTER:
HIGH/LOW SHRINK FIBRES: The high shrink fibre shrinks upto 50% at 100 degree C while that of low shrinkage is 1%. The high shrink fibre enable fabrics with high density to be produced and is particularly used in artificaial leather and high density felt. Low shrinkage fibre is recommended for air filters used in hot air, furniture, shoes etc.
MICRO DENIER: Available in 0.5/0.7/0.8 deniers in cutlengths 32/38 mm. Ideal for high class shirts, suitings, ladies dress material because of its exceptional soft feel. It is also available in siliconised finish for pillows. To get the best results, it is suggested that the blend be polyester rich and the reed/pick of the fabric be heavy.
FLAME RETARDANT: Has to be used by law in furnishings / curtains, etc where a large number of people gather - like in cinema theatres, buses, cars etc in Europe and USA. It is recommended for curtains, seat covers, car mats, automotive interior, aircraft interiors etc.
CATIONIC DYEABLE: Gives very brilliant shades with acid colours in dyeing / printing. Ideal for ladies wear
EASY DYEABLE: Can be dyed with disperse Dyes @98 degrees C without the need for HTHP equipment. Ideal for village handicrafts etc.
LOW PILL: In 2 and 3 deniers, for suiting end use and knitwear fibre with low tenacity of 3 to 3.5 gm/denier, so that pills which forms during use fall away easily.
ANTIBACTERIAL:It is antibacterial throughout the wear life of the garment inspite repeated washing. Suggested uses are underwears, socks, sports, blankets and air conditioning filters
SUPER HIGH TENACITY: It is above 7 g/denier and it is mainly used for sewing threads. Low dry heat shrinkage is also recommended for this purpose. Standard denier recommended is 1.2 and today 0.8 is also available.
MODIFIED CROSS SECTION: In this there are TRILOBAL, TRIANGULAR, FLAT, DOG BONE and HOLLOW FIBRES with single and multiple hollows. Trilobal fibre gives good feel. Triangular fibre gives excellent lustre. Flat and dog bone fibres are recommended for furnishings, while hollow fibres are used as filling fibres in pillows, quilts, beddings and padding. For pillows silicoised fibres is required. Some fibre producers offer hollow fibre with built in perfumes.
CONDUCTING FIBRE: This fibre has fine powder of stainless steel in it to make fibre conductive. Recommended as carpets for computer rooms.
LOW MELT FIBRE: It is a bi-component fibre with a modified polyester on the surface which softens at low temperature like 110 degree C while the core is standard polyester polymer. This fibre is used for binding non woven webs.

textile dyeing

Textile dyeing is concerned with organic (that is, carbon-based) compounds that can be dissolved in appropriate solvents, usually water. The dyes in solution are absorbed on the surface of the textile fibre then pass into the interior of the material by a process called diffusion.

The process of transferring the dye from solution to the fibre is called exhaustion, with 100% exhaustion meaning that there is no dye left in the dyebath solution. An important property of a dyeing is its levelness, in other words when the same depth of colour can be seen all over the material.

Another factor is good penetration, when the dye has penetrated deeply into the structure of the fibre, colouring it from the outer surface of the fibre to its interior.

Dye molecules are attracted by physical forces at the molecular level to the textile. The amount of this attraction is known as 'substantivity': the higher the substantivity the greater the attraction of the dye for the fibre.

Think of all the garments you own and imagine the things that they have to go through before you buy them and during use. Their colour has to resist fading when they are used or left out in sunlight. They have to be suitable for repeated washing without the colour running. But there are other factors as well.For example, the colour in your swimwear must also be fast to sea water and the chlorinated water used in the swimming pool. The blouse and shirt you wear next to your skin should not discolour because of the effects of perspiration (which can be either acid or alkali).

These are the sort of issues that dye manufacturers need to consider before launching dyes onto the market.Because of the wide range of end uses of coloured textiles, many tests have been developed to assess fastness. Testing involves comparing a dyed sample that has been exposed to an agency, for example to light or to washing, with an original, to assess accurately any change in shade or change in depth of colour. Up to a certain level, changes are considered by industry to be acceptable, depending on the end use of the dyed material. If these levels are exceeded the product fails the test.In washing fastness a sample is tested with so-called adjacent fabrics to assess the extent of staining of a piece of white fabric, similar to what happens when coloured garments are washed together with whites in a washing machine.

future textiles

THE AREAS OF FUTURE TEXTILES Though they are not always visible and may not make-up 100% of a product, here are some real life examples from within the main areas of the technical textiles sector: Medi-Tech (Medical Textiles) – allergy-free bedding and a woven fabric containing silver technology that can kill the MRSA bug are now available Build-Tech (Construction Textiles) – textile applications used within the construction industry including scaffold nets and roofing felts Cloth-Tech (Clothing Textiles) – an example is performance materials such as GORE-TEX which is waterproof, windproof and highly breathable Auto-Tech (Automotive Textiles) – did you know that the internal structure of a tyre is made-up from textile fibres including cotton, nylon and polyester? Aero-Tech (Aerospace Textiles) – woven fabric structures form part of composite materials used in the manufacture of aircrafts wings, as well as the main body of an aircraft Def-Tech (Defence Textiles) - found in the uniforms of the armed forces and emergency services, fibres can be flame-retardant and heat-resistant Agro-Tech (Agricultural textiles) – used in agriculture, horticulture, forestry and landscaping e.g. nets for protecting crops from weather and insect damage

FUTURE TEXTILES

THE AREAS OF FUTURE TEXTILES Though they are not always visible and may not make-up 100% of a product, here are some real life examples from within the main areas of the technical textiles sector: Medi-Tech (Medical Textiles) – allergy-free bedding and a woven fabric containing silver technology that can kill the MRSA bug are now available Build-Tech (Construction Textiles) – textile applications used within the construction industry including scaffold nets and roofing felts Cloth-Tech (Clothing Textiles) – an example is performance materials such as GORE-TEX which is waterproof, windproof and highly breathable Auto-Tech (Automotive Textiles) – did you know that the internal structure of a tyre is made-up from textile fibres including cotton, nylon and polyester? Aero-Tech (Aerospace Textiles) – woven fabric structures form part of composite materials used in the manufacture of aircrafts wings, as well as the main body of an aircraft Def-Tech (Defence Textiles) found in the uniforms of the armed forces and emergency services, fibres can be flame-retardant and heat-resistant Agro-Tech (Agricultural textiles) – used in agriculture, horticulture, forestry and landscaping e.g. nets for protecting crops from weather and insect damage Skillfast-UK. Part of the Skills for Business network of 25 employer-led Sector Skills Councils.

Fabric selection

Fabric Guide Cashmere: Gets its name from the Kashmir goat of India. Cashmere is a super soft luxury fabric, although is often mixed with wools or synthetics to keep costs down (this is how you can get cashmere in Target these days, for example). Advantages: Soft, luxurious look and feel, has a little bit of stretch, adapts to the temperature (keeps you warm in winter but cool in spring). Disadvantages: Many great cashmere lines (TSE, Lucien Pellat Finet, etc) do not make plus size cashmere items. Those that do often offer unstructured pieces, as opposed to ones that are body hugging. Also, cashmere is fragile, prone to snags, moth holes and pilling. Cotton: Natural fiber used in the majority of casual clothing on the market including many panties, t-shirts and workout gear. Advantages: Soft, easy fit, affordable, can be machine washed. Disadvantages: Often does not age well, color made fade after repeated washings. Linen: Natural fabric that comes from the flax plant. Linen is similar to cotton but stronger, and without any stretch. Advantages: Comfortable; breathes well. Disadvantages: Wrinkles easy; does not conform to the curves of the body, not dressy. Lycra/spandex: A strong, elastic, man-made fabric that is frequently blended with other fabrics to make them stretchier. Most bathing suits, sports bras, leggings and very clinging clothing items have a percentage of lycra in them. Advantages: When used as a small percentage of a fabric, lycra can add a little stretch without being too tight. Disadvantages: The greater the percentage of lycra or spandex in the garment, the tighter it will fit, clinging to areas you might not want to showcase. Sometimes it also doesn't breathe very well. Rayon: A man made fiber that is often used as an alternative to silk. Rayon is commonly found in dress and jacket linings, although it is also frequently used in less expensive evening wear. Advantages:Feels good to the touch, can sometimes give a look of quality at a reduced price. Disadvantages: Can sometimes look cheap, shiny rayon can become dull over time. Satin: A weave made from silk or man-made fibers like polyester, this thick fabric is most often utilized for evening and bridal wear. Advantages: Satin can be a fairly flattering fabric, and even polyester satins can look expensive. Look for satins that are lined, they skim the body a little better. Disadvantages: Can wrinkle or crease from sitting, can show sweat stains if it's a light color, usually doesn't have stretch to it unless it is cut on the bias. Silk: Comes from caterpillar cocoons. This is a luxury fabric with a shine to it. Silk is most often seen in evening wear, scarves, camisoles, and lingerie. Advantages: Silk looks and feels expensive and elegant. Disadvantages: Silk will lay against your body in a way that shows every lump and bump. Velvet: A tightly woven fabric with a thick pile to it, velvet can come in a variety of thicknesses and types. Velvet is most often seen in tops, tunics and evening wear. Advantages: Feels good to the touch, if it is cut on the bias or has stretch it will lay nicely on the body. Disadvantages: Some velvets can look cheap, can be hard to launder, depending on the style it can look very outdated. Wool: A fiber made from goats, sheep or other wooly animals. Wool is a warm fabric most often used for outerwear, sweaters, or winter pants. Advantages: Keeps you really warm. Disadvantages: Depending on the type, it can be really itchy, and can smell funny if it gets wet.